We started the day in front of the Parliament building, watching the ceremonial changing of the guard. Will posed with one of the soldiers wearing the fantastical traditional uniform complete with pom-pomed shoes and pleated white “skirts,” (Will actually grabbed the guy’s tight-encased leg — we think trying to see if he was real or a statue — fortunately the soldier didn’t flinch) then the police cleared the plaza, with much shouting and gesticulating, and a brass band marched in, followed by another two dozen or so Greek soldiers, in full regalia. (Stray dogs, ubiquitous in Syntagma Square, wandered among the columns of men.) Then we walked past the National Garden to the Temple of Zeus, a spectacular series of columns, the largest in Greece, built over nearly 7 centuries. Then we started up the hill to the Acropolis, visiting the still unfinished, but sort of open, Acropolis Museum, where we managed to get scolded twice. We caught glimpses of some of the most famous sculptures in Greece, but we couldn’t get near because they are just installing them.

The weather was perfect, about 70, with a light breeze. The Acropolis was packed with people, mainly European tour groups, and the steps up to the Parthenon were jammed. But the views were stunning, and the setting, overlooking Athens’ population of nearly 5 million people, was amazing.  Again, we got scolded for posing for a picture with a little soldier doll we had bought for Will — apparently it was disrespectful of the archaeological site. Rick’s such a trouble-maker. We also visited the Agora Museum, where they had scores of remarkable pots and other antiquities dating back thousands of years — including one by Exekias, the great master of Black Figure, along with a bronze Spartan shield and a ceramic child’s potty seat. Cool. We tried, but I fear failed, to imagine Socrates holding forth in the Agora, but it was fun to try. We saw other tourists — Greeks this time — get scolded for sitting in the wrong place. Whew.

We had a decent lunch in a taverna in the Plaka (though Rick is already laying off the Greek salad), and walked through the Sunday flea market there, which was bedlam. Walked down a very cool pedestrian street outside the Agora packed with Athenians out for their Sunday coffees  and ouzo — cafe after cafe lined the walkway. We also saw two tortoises on way up to the Acropolis, and dozens of ownerless  dogs, which wander free and easy in Athens. We’re having a great time. Hope everybody’s well back home.