SPEAN BRIDGE, Sunday, July 19, 2009 – After a breakfast of porridge and toast with marmalade, (well, Pa had the full Scottish breakfast of bacon and eggs, and Ma the ubiquitous broiled tomato and mushrooms), we set off for Fort William to catch the Harry Potter Express, otherwise known as the Jacobite Steam Train. The rail line, originally built in the late 19^th century to haul in herring from the coast, became famous for being featured as the Hogwart’s Express that took Harry and his cohorts to witch school. (Remember D.K. Rowling wrote early versions of the story in a café looking out on Edinburgh Castle.) There is an especially famous shot of the old-fashioned steam train crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct, and yes, we passed over it today! The scenery was spectacular, huge green mountains laced with waterfalls and speckled with gray and white rocks. We passed a number of lochs – they seem to be everywhere – and passed the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie both arrived in Scotland to lead his Jacobite insurrection, and where he fled from it after the disaster at Culloden.

After an hour and 45 minute ride, we arrived in Maillaig, a fishing village at the end of the line, on the coast looking out on the inner Hebrides, including the Isle of Skye, where we travel tomorrow. We ate a delicious lunch (Mom and I had the Scallop and Shrimp Chowder, YUM!) and Will devoured every carbohydrate in site – cheese and tomato pizza, baked beans, chips (as in French Fries), bread. I forced him to eat one slice of cucumber and one wedge of tomato. I guess a child can’t become malnourished in just 10 days, or can he? We’ll get back to eating fruit and vegetables when we return, I suppose.

We then wandered the tiny town looking for wireless, and found it at the ferry station. There, I hurriedly filed my pre-written blog post and uploaded a few photos for all our loyal readers out there. I felt like I was back as a reporter, searching for a way to get my story filed in the middle of a wildfire with no cell service. We then rushed back to the train station to catch the ride home. Will won 5 pounds on the waterfall-counting contest on the return trip, beating out Bops 13 to 10.

We’re now back at Letterfinlay Lodge,  sipping whisky, lounging in the rustic wood-paneled drawing room, and waiting for dinner at 6:30.Will is playing pool and having a wonderful time while Grams and Bops watch the British Open. Why isn’t it called the Scottish Open?????

Love to all! I’ll attempt to file this Monday if we have wireless either at the Talisker Distillery, where the grandparents have a special tour, or at our bed and breakfast. Wish me luck!