ISLEORNSAY, ISLE OF SKYE, Tuesday, July 21, 2009, 4:45 p.m. — We had a delightful morning in the sunshine, glorious sunshine.

We all slept in then went downstairs for a leisurely breakfast in our hotel. I tried out the Brose (rhymes with prose), which is a very thick, coarse porridge served with cream. It was very hearty. Pa had his usual bacon and eggs, Grandma her roasted tomatoes and mushrooms, and Will ate a whopping two bowls of corn flakes, toast with jam, a hard-boiled egg and bacon. Whew!
We then enjoyed the morning sun outside,

and Mom and I found a wonderful wool and tweed shop next door where I actually bought something! (I never shop on vacation.) They had beautiful scarves and funky hats and tweedy men’s jackets, all made in Scotland. We then ventured out on our driving tour of Skye, a 4 1/2 hour venture to the tip of the island and back, past some of the most rugged and gorgeous scenery we’ve seen on the trip. I had to get into my “single-track mind” again, as we wove up the coast past the quaint harbour town of Portree. At 2,000 residents, it’s the islands largest city and capital. We then cruised up the coast, past innumerable sheep, which threatened to jump out in front of our car and become lamb burger at any moment, past innumerable white-washed houses with dormers peaking out, past lovely rock formation after rock formation. The Old Man of Storr is the most famous, and it was striking.

We took a steep, single-track road up to see the Quairaing, a series of weird rock formations on the sweeping green hillsides. The drive was a bit hairy, because you couldn’t see far ahead of you and it was NARROW and STEEP and quite dramatic. Even more dramatic was turning around at the top! We then headed back down and talked Dad into driving the whole way around the Trottenish Peninsula — we were all a bit (OK, a lot) tired of driving, but we’d come so far we couldn’t turn around now.
We enjoyed the rest of the drive, in which we encountered many many sheep, many many beautiful views out across the water to the surrounding islands, and a few small white houses set against a dramatic vast green backdrop. We also passed the Flodigarry House Hotel, where our friends the Ahmads stayed — unbelievably gorgeous setting!
As we rounded the island and headed for home, Will asked, “Where are we going?” We said, “The Hotel.” “Why did we do that?” he asked about the drive, since his face had been buried in his DVD movies most of the time, though we prodded him to enjoy the view all the way along.

And as we approached the hotel, the skies — which had been graciously kind to us for our day of sightseeing — began to darken, and yes, rain began to fall. It’s now raining quite hard, but that doesn’t matter because we are safe and cozy in our hotel. The weather forecast for the last three days of our vacation? Heavy rain.
Hey Courtenay!
Way to go! If I had been tour guide-driver-chaperone-social chair I would not be sounding as chipper as you do. Sounds like a memorable trip!
Safe and happy travels for the duration of your time in Scotland and your trip over the pond!
xocarrie
PS: No more blood pudding?
Love it!
Once again, we’re really enjoying your postings! Thanks for sharing with us.
Rehan reminded me how when we were visiting Skye that I had said that someday I’d like to go back there, stay for 2wks, bring along a couple of good books, and have absolutely no plans. While visiting Skye, it was nice to feel transported to somewhere very remote in distance and in time.
Will you be going along the north coast of Scotland in the Ullapool/John O’Groats area? I absolutely LOVED that drive. Then again, I got to be the passenger the whole time.
Speaking of being transported away and feeling detached. . .I should limit my comments as not to pull you back to day-to-day life in Portland.
Enjoy the rest of your trip! Next time you go, we’ll make sure there’s a designated driver for you;)
Asma,
We are home now, so didn’t get to do the far north. We drove 825 miles as it was! No wonder I’m wiped out. I still can’t believe I’m home — we had such a wonderful time. I totally agree with the 2 weeks on Skye thing. I also could have spent more time in Callander biking and doing easy hikes in Glencoe. So much to see. You were so lucky to have spent so much time there. It was a wonderful experience. Thanks for inspiring us! See you Sunday (I finished the book on the flight home today. Really, really good.)