Kyoto, Saturday, June 19, 2010, 6 p.m. — This may be our last post for a while — we enter the wifi-free zone of ryokan, the traditional Japanese inn. We had a great day in Kyoto, visiting the Fushimi Inari Shrine, the mother shrine for rice, the most important food in Japan. Because rice was once used as a means of exchange, it is also the shrine for business — and for sake, the rice wine. We wandered up a mountain lined by vermillion torii gates creating shaded tunnels up the hill. It was really fun and picturesque. The boys left wishes on a wooden plaque in the shape of a fox — the guardian animal of the shrine — on which they had drawn funny faces. I wish I could upload the photos.
We also visited the Phoenix Hall or Byoodoin, the only remaining temple from the Heian period in the 11th century. It was beautiful, its red paint faded gray, hovering like a bird over the rock-lined pond in front. The statue of Amida Buddha inside was larger than I imagined (I’d seen it in many art history slides) and very peaceful. And many green tea ice creams were consumed.
We’re now back at the hotel, enjoying a beautiful view of the eastern hills of Kyoto, against a backdrop of clouds. Asma is moving into a room with a view for our last night in Kyoto.
We’re off to Takayama in the mountains of Nagano tomorrow. It’s likely to be hot and rainy there as well, but we’re kind of used to it by now. And we’ve heard it was a whopping 48 degrees and hailing at home, so we won’t complain. We hope all is well with all our friends and family, and we’ll be in touch when we can.