ROME, ITALY, Sunday, March 20, 2011 — So Rick and I woke at precisely 2 a.m. — five hours after falling asleep, not enough sleep after essentially an all-nighter getting here. We both feared we would never get to sleep again because of jet-lag, but to our surprise (and after I recounted the history of Rome in my head to 1) prepare for the tour tomorrow and 2) to make myself fall asleep) we all woke at 9:15 a.m. That meant Will got a full 13 hours of sleep. He was a nuovo uomo — a new man! After a great breakfast at the hotel (gotta love proscuitto and brie and roasted tomatoes with your caffe’), we headed out into the city that Will declared last night — “It’s the worst place we’ve ever been. You said there would be ruins around every corner” — when instead we dodged cars through trash-strewn streets searching for our (amazing) pizza place recommended by an Roman restaurateur from Portland — (plug for Lawrence McCormick at “Taste Unique” at SE Division and 20th — great Italian food by the nicest people.)

Well, today the story was different, and Will found his groove. We first dodged the other-abled marathoners in recumbent bikes cruising through the Piazza Navona for the Rome Marathon. We then walked by the Pantheon, but couldn’t go in because people were celebrating mass — it’s cool that people are still worshipping in a nearly 2,000-year-old temple dedicated to all the gods. We then wandered a few blocks south to the 4th century BC and younger temples at the Largo Argentino, followed by a walk by a few unmarked ruins — every few blocks! — and then crossed over the marathon route to hike up the steps designed by Michelangelo for Charles V up to the holiest ancient spot in Rome — the Capitoline hill. We spent an amazing few hours in the Capitoline Museums, especially excited by a special exhibit on power, which brought together some of the most famous sculptures of emperors in the world — busts from the Louvre, a bust of Julius Caesar from Berlin, the Capitoline Brutus. Will became adept at identifying the type of material — bronze, terracotta, marble — as well as the emperor. Such fun. Then some lovely ceramics, the 6th C. BC foundation of the original most-important super-cool temple of the Jupiter, Minerva and Juno built by the Etruscans — all topped by an elevator ride up to the top of the “modern” 100-year-old Victor Emanuel Monument for a panoramic view of the city. And that was just the beginning of our marathon.

While marathoners below collapsed and were carted off by ambulances, others walking, others running oh-so-slowly, we marched on our own private marathon down to the Roman Forum, the heart of ancient Rome, saw where Caesar was cremated and where Mark Anthony gave his famous speech, the Senate House where poor Cicero had his right hand and his tongue/head (not sure which) were nailed by the same Mark Anthony for saying probably justifiably nasty things about him, the house of the Vestal Virgins, on and on and on. It was amazing. Will couldn’t believe he could reach out and touch it all.

We then wandered the Palatine Hill, visited Augustus’s modest house, and completely exhausted, found a cool trattoria nearby filled with locals who teased me for my Italian, but still spoke it to me. Refreshed, we headed to one of the other highlights of the day for Will — the archaeological layers beneath the Church of St. Clement. We descended first to a 4th C. AD Christian church, then down to a 1st C. AD Mythraeum, a cult religion from Greece that was filled with echoes of the past and cool dark corridors and chambers. Will found a fragment of a column capital used as masonry and was quite jazzed about it.

Then, just because we were nearby, I persuaded them to go to the Markets of Trajan, which I had heard were not-to-be-missed, and I knew we would miss them unless we leapt at the chance. It turned out to be another highlight for Will — exploring amazing corridors and streets that were essentially the world’s first shopping mall, according to the wonderful Yale professor Diana Kleiner. We were there as the sun was setting, and the light was beautiful and atmospheric. Will was in heaven.

Then, since we had to walk home anyway, we took in the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps — Rick declared them just like the Eiffel Tower without the tower ie. way too many people, way too many people selling junk and souvenirs, way to many people trying to pick your pocket. So we made our way to the best gelato in Rome, according to our Lawrence and many others, Giolitti. We staggered past the Pantheon again, through the Piazza Navona, our legs aching like the poor post-marathoners we saw limping everywhere in the historic old center, and back to our room. Here we are relaxing, getting ready for another grueling and unforgettable day tomorrow at the Vatican. I hope all is well with everyone. For now, Buona Notte!