NAPLES, ITALY, Wednesday, March 23, 201 — Hold on to your belongings because Naples will take everything, including your breath, away. Pickpockets and scammers are there to greet you when get off the fast train from Rome. The taxi driver has a scheme to take you for an extra five euros, or on the longest, wildest roundabout ride of your life to the national archaeological museum that’s only about a mile away, if he would only take the most direct route there.

We reluctantly chose the latter option, and careened down the overwhelmed streets of Naples and managed, within 20 unforgettable minutes, to hit two pedestrians and narrowly miss scores more. No one was seriously hurt, we think, but one thump nearly took off a side mirror and the second perhaps left a slight dent in the hood. Not to worry: Everything and everyone in Naples seems to be wounded in some way. I have no pictures, because I was reluctant to risk taking out my camera, even to capture the faded beauty of the colorful buildings and full-of-life streets. The museum was a metaphor for this fascinating and broken city, home to a world-class collection of statuary, mosaics and painted walls from Pompeii and Rome but carelessly maintained, only partially open and lacking lighting in several key rooms. However, I did note that the room full of pornographic mosaics and other brothel art from Pompeii, described to Will as the “Naughty Room,” was very well lit. (BTW he did not see the naughty room.) And so it goes in Naples, a city we will never forget, but were nonetheless relieved to put in our rear view mirror.

Pompeii, though, we will happily carry with us forever. The shattered top of Mount Vesuvius, a huge dark shadow looming over the once thriving resort town near the sea, with gorgeous villas, more modest homes, bakeries, a theater, music hall and even an amphitheater for gladiatorial games. Once we escaped the tour groups at the entrance, we were entranced by the long empty stone streets, creased by ancient ruts, studded with large elevated paving stones so you could cross the street without getting your feet wet. The shells of once luxurious villas stood roofless, often blocked off to visitors, but inside, they held marvels of wall frescoes, statuary (mostly at the Naples museum), and floor mosaics. Around every corner, we’d run into little thermapolea, the ancient version of fast-food restaurants, with very modern looking stone-tiled counters, with basins to hold the hot food. We saw mill-stones and pizza ovens, gorgeous peristyle courts and basins for catching rainwater. Everywhere, Will spotted lizards darting up the exposed brick walls.

We walked and walked in the brilliant sunshine, Will darting in and out of the maze of rooms, some still carrying remnants of spectacular wall paintings, strolling through the grassy amphitheater, where gladiators battled to the death. We saw the Villa of the Mysteries, with its gorgeous wall frescoes, narrated for us by a Japanese tour guide, the only other people who ventured that far out of the city walls. They marveled at Will, dodging one of the sweet but hungry dogs, who roamed the villa. Inu wa inu, they said. Dogs will be dogs.

Finally, we made it back to Rome, so glad to be back in a somewhat less chaotic city. The crazy driving here seems so tame compared to Napoli. We had a lovely dinner at Costanze, an old restaurant set into the theater of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was murdered. It was lovely, the food very good, and we are now ready to collapse.

I hope everyone is well. We decided tonight at dinner that Rome is our favorite city in Europe. You must all visit some time….