Laugh all you want: Kong Lear in Danish

COPENHAGEN — When I told friends that I would be seeing King Lear on our second night in Copenhagen, and that the performance would be in Danish, that I wouldn’t understand a single word of the three-hour tragedy, the only advice I got was this: Don’t laugh.

I settled into my seat (second row, smack in the middle), still feeling the jet lag and a long full day of trailing Courtenay through the National Museum, a sculpture museum, some kind of museum to the royal family’s horses, a canal tour and some other stuff.

Laugh? The question was how soon I was going to cry.

Well, it wasn’t that bad. No, I didn’t understand anything anyone said, except for a couple too-brief appearances by one actor speaking English, but then I’ve had somewhat similar experiences with

Opera_House

Royal Danish Playhouse

the Shakespearian English at the Ashland Shakespeare Festival. I am, if nothing else, an old pro at staring blankly at theater performances and somehow, someway, almost holding my own in the conversation with Courtenay at intermission and afterwards.

We agreed that Gloucester was kind of weak in the first act, that Cordelia and the Fool, played by the same actress, lacked the charisma and moral standing needed to pull the play together at the end, or something like that. Anyway, I didn’t fall asleep and didn’t fall apart.

And I didn’t laugh.

But here’s the thing: Everyone else did. Apparently it was an unusually funny performance of King Lear, at least up until they gouged one guy’s eyeballs out and tossed them around stage. I averted my eyes and longed for worse seats. Second row!

There was scattered laughter through the play, but I felt like I did when I was about four years old and watching TV with my Dad, trying to laugh when he did.

Some of the highlights, from a non-Shakespeare, non-Danish-speaking theater-goer:

–It was a cool, compact playhouse, with interesting lighting and uneven brick walls that cast interesting shadows everywhere.

–A decent sword fight between Edmund and Edgar. Will would have been impressed with some of the parrying.

–An unusually nasty and bloodthirsty Regan.

–An impressive performance by the actor that played Lear, who got crazier and sicker as the play went on, and got the final speech just right. It was moving, kinda, almost, in any language.

–Spoiler alert: Almost everyone dies. That’s how I knew the end of the play was near.

Anyway, I’ve survived the toughest day of our vacation. It’s all downhill from here.

At least until next week’s opera performance of Falstaff. It’s going to be performed in Italian. I don’t speak Italian.

But there will be Danish subtitles.

Go ahead and laugh.

(Postscript: It was a beautiful day here, cold, with a bluebell sky. We had a great day. It’s late tonight, but I’ll post pictures tomorrow.)

 

 

København, where the skies are blå and the øl is kalt

We arrived in Copenhagen on a cold, blue-sky day, when everyone in this city was out in front of the cafes and bars drinking beer and enjoying the new-found sun. We were able to take in the views from the Round Tower, before eating some smorrebrod, walking around the cobbled city, weaving in and out amongst the pedestrians and bicyclists, and now about to crash from no sleep. The best news of the day, however, is that Will made it safely to Taiwan — again with apparently no sleep — but he reports he is well and having the time of his life. Gotta go catch some sleep or this blog post will continue to make little sense. So god nat from Copenhagen central — a view of the famous spiral church steeple from my window — and sending love across the two oceans. Missing my little big boy… Oh yea, and that dog.

Goodnight, London

LONDON — It’s a few minutes after 10 o’clock on Sunday night and we’ve all just finished packing to come home. It will be a little sad to leave our lovely London flat behind, but we’re all eager to fly home and hug Pippy.

Paint it Black, or Raphael Red, or Turner Grey

LONDON — Will slept until after 10 a.m., and we still managed to make it through the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery by 1:15 p.m. With a stop for breakfast of Cream Tea. Not that I am proud of this. But when you have a 12-year-old in tow, even a relatively patient one, it’s sometimes all you can do to make sure he has seen several dozen important works that will hopefully seep deep into his brain, like rainwater through gravel.

So he saw the skull in The Ambassadors, the evil pig stare of Thomas Cromwell, the forever battling troops in Ucello’s Battle of San Romano, Van Gogh’s electric yellow Sunflowers. Will particularly liked several small Raphael’s; I loved the Tudor portraits, especially of Cranmer and Wriosthesley; Rick loved a painting with a chubby cupid being bitten by bees, the Raphael, the Van Gogh. The boys lucked out that there was a strike of museum staff, so several large galleries were closed.

After a bit of shopping, Will scored a new jacket from the very British Topman, near Oxford Circle, which was insanely crowded. The sidewalks were packed a la Harajuku in Tokyo; we could hardly get back down into the Tube station. The only real benefit was we could join the mass of jaywalkers and defy the homicidal bus and cab drivers. Covent Garden, too, was a crazy mass of humanity and street performers, which creep Rick out. Kind of like clowns. Or mimes. We fled.

After shopping, we split up — Rick and Will to the Natural History Museum, and I to the Tate Britain. They loved the dinosaurs; I loved the Turners and the Pre-Raphaelites, especially the Ophelia of Millais. I had seen the painting many times in books on Shakespeare, but seeing it in person brought unexpected tears to my eyes. Something about the flowers, the bird, the faraway look in her eye, echoes of Hamlet, and also of Midsummer Night’s  Dream.

We managed to meet back up for dinner at the hotel. Good to be back together again!

Of Snipe Hunts and Paintings

Big Ben and the Parliament, as seen from The Eye
Big Ben and the Parliament, as seen from The Eye

LONDON — Today, the London Eye and a Thames Clipper jaunt to Greenwich, of Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian. The weather was mostly clear today, so we rode the Eye to see the view. It was OK, but Will and Rick had already climbed St. Paul’s and the Monument, so they were used to the view and weren’t overly impressed. We then jumped on a commuter boat to Greenwich, a few miles downriver, where King Henry VIII and his daughter Elizabeth were born. After a meal in the riverside Trafalgar Tavern — where Dickens used to eat — that darn Dickens keeps showing up at our mealtimes — we headed up to the 17th century Royal Observatory, where Will and I straddled the Meridian, one leg in each hemisphere. We watched the ball drop above the hill observatory — as it has every day at 1 p.m. since the early 19th century so that seafarers could set their clocks for navigation.

We saw the development of the first time piece that made navigating longitude accurate and sailing much more safe. Carpenter and amateur clockmaker John Harrison took on the challenge in the 1700s and developed a series of four clocks — the first three large as a birdcage, the final one — and the successful design — a small and beautiful watch known as H4. It reminded me of Steve Jobs and the quest for the perfect design. Anyhow, I want an H4.

The Greenwich Observatory
The Royal Observatory

Rick then wanted us to go to the “Deer Park” at the far end of Greenwich Park, a former royal hunting ground on a high place overlooking London and the Thames and the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. A kind of Pearl District with Major Banks. We teased Rick as we walked, and he asserted that the deer park — which he claimed Rick Steves had called a “must-do” — would sure beat those boring paintings I wanted to see in the Queen’s House back down by the Thames. We walked and walked and walked and walked. Rick was hoping for a Nara-style friendly deer petting zoo experience, I think, but it was more like a bunch of mangy fallow deer behind barbed wire. A little English girl was squealing — “I saw a mouse! Or a rat! I’m not sure which!” when we arrived so that made it a little more exciting. We laughed all the way back through the sunshine to the Queen’s House, which turned out to have some AMAZING paintings, even Rick agreed. The 17th century house had been built for the wives of the Stuarts, and there were some iconic portraits of the Tudors and the Stuarts, as well as a famous Spanish Armada painting and many many others. The house itself, now a popular wedding venue, is famous for being the first perfect home designed by Inigo Jones in the Palladian Italian style.

We cruised through the Maritime Museum, which was designed for an age group we didn’t understand — toddlers? pensioners? both? — so we took the light rail and Tube back home to recuperate for dinner. A stroll down King’s Road to Rabbit, which had the cool woodsy vibe of Ned Ludd without the amazing food. The smoked trout with clotted cream was delicious, as was the mushroom ravioli, but all the “small bites” left Will hungry for a bagel with lox and creme brulé back at the hotel.

We rode home on our first London bus. We had the familiar Tube-vs-Taxi “discussion,” decided to walk, and then a bus pulled up alongside us — it was just like the Grateful Dead song — a bus came by and I got on, that’s where it all began — and we leaped on. It would have delivered us to our door had we not gotten off a stop too soon in an overabundance of caution. Better than a taxi. Better than the Tube. Figured it out two days before we leave. Sigh.