Tag Archives: France

Fattening up in Provence

Posted on by

Our first full day in Provence began with crepes in Avignon, featured pizza in Orange and, after a day of touring Roman ruins, ended with beef, foie gras and cheesecake back in Avignon. As Will chortled near the end of the last meal, “Mom is fattening up in Provence!”

The day featured only one hiccup, a stubborn Hertz clerk who refused to rent us our minivan unless the name on the credit card matched the name on my driver’s license. Since we had only brought Courtenay’s credit card this morning with my driver’s license, her insistence required a 20-minute round trip cab ride back to the hotel to fetch my credit card. Once we were in the van and underway, we drove through a soulless stretch of highway between Avignon and Orange that reminded us of some of the worst stretches of Oregon roads–Columbia Boulevard in Portland, Lancaster in Salem, the 100 miserable miles from Lincoln City south….

However, Orange and its ancient theatre were worth suffering that drive. The theatre, which dates back to the time of Christ, has a remarkably well preserved stage. It’s still in use, seating around 10,000 people. Will ran through the tunnels and up and down the steps, while Mitchell and Alex posed for pictures in their Trailblazers T-shirts, hoping one day to be featured on the TrailBlazers TV highlights featuring Blazers’ fans traveling around the world.

After leaving the ancient theatre, we hurried through a small museum and then wandered over to a central plaza, where the kids had pizza while Courtenay and I had large salads. From there, we drove through Orange to the Arc de Triomphe that sits in the middle of a roundabout on the edge of the city. Erected in 21 BC, the decorative friezes and carvings of battle scenes, enslaved Gauls and naval equipment celebrate Roman supremacy on land and sea.

After leaving Orange, we drove to the second great Roman town in the region, Vaison-la-Romaine, a city of about 5,000 on the east bank of the Ouveze River. Vaison includes terrific fields of Roman ruins, including one pond surrounded by broken marble columns that especially caught Courtenay’s fancy. There’s another fine restored theatre in Vaison, a bit smaller than the one in Orange, seating about 6,000 people. The ruins and the theater were great, but Vaison is topped off by a towering Cite Medievale, a medieval stronghold overlooking the city. After some trouble driving up to the cliffs, and navigating the narrow streets and pathways, some marked by “Warning Cliff” signs, we emerged at the ruined chateau, and looked down, way down, at Vaison and the Ouveze River.

Tired, and somewhat grumpy as a group, we made our way back to Avignon, a little rest and another big meal. We’re ready for tomorrow, which includes the stunning Pont du Gard aquaduct, the vibrant city of Nimes and our country home for the next two nights, St Remy de-Provence. More later.

Paris Touchdown

Posted on by

Bonjour mes amis! Nous sommes arrives!! What was it Toot and Puddle said when they found each other in France? I whispered in French to Will as we pulled into Charles De Gaul airport, and he said, “Whatever. Sounds good!” Anyhow, we made it safely after a very smooth flight, which was only marred by Rick busting into his seatmate, some poor woman from Laurelhurst in Portland, while she was perched in the lavatory. They didn’t speak for hours afterwards.

Other than that, it was a smooth flight. Will slept a few hours en route. Alex did great despite misgivings about motion sickness and having been up until 3 a.m. the night before finishing a last-minute project. And Mitchell is his usual cheerful travel self, sampling first the pain au chocolat and then the very French Club Sandwich, pronounced “Sand-weech.”

While we waited to check-in, we wandered the literary area of St. Germaine-des-Pres, the former haunt of Hemingway, Sartre, Camus, Picasso and even our old buddy Ben Franklin. We walked through the Luxemburg Gardens, saw the gothic St. Surplice church featured in the “Da Vinci Code,” and saw the building where the treaty ending the U.S. Revolutionary War was signed by Franklin, John Jay and John Adams. That was all before lunch — and a nap. We dined at the Cafe Deux Magot, where Hemingway liked to drink coffee, and then staggered back to the hotel for a nap. Croques Madames and Croque Provencales all around, except for Will’s salami and baguette sandwich, plain the way he likes it and can’t get it in the U.S., along with cornichons. Will declared, “I like the French,” as he tucked into his sandwich.
We then staggered back to our hotel for a rest. Our dear friend Eric insisted we only nap 2.5 hours, no more, much to Rick’s chagrin, but we are trusting Eric’s knowledge of Parisian jet lag, so we’re up and at em again. He, his wife Chrystele and their baby boy Luka are headed over to meet us in a few minutes. We send amour to tout le monde and we’ll post some photos later. Bisous!